Advanced Maintenance – Foil

Last Update 22 Aug 23

Introduction

These tasks require additional tools and some electrical knowledge would be helpful.

It presumes you are familiar with the Basic Maintenance page.

It may contain references to other information that may not yet be available

Tools and Materials – Advanced Tasks

Tools

Basic maintenance tools plus:

Broad blade screwdriver

8mm open/ring spanner for non-Leon Paul sockets and for other brands of 2 pin Inside Guard Sockets

500g test weight

Battery powered Test box*, Multimeter* or Scoring Box

Minimum 7cm (3inch) table vice (optional)

For setting tangs:

10cm (4inch) bench vice

Safety glasses

Cut proof gloves

25cm/8inch ring spanner or other leverage method (see that section)

Materials

Cheap, thin, cotton buds and switch cleaning spray* or isopropyl alcohol*. Optional

Very fine emery paper (600 or 800 grade) also called ‘wet and dry’ paper from hardware stores like B&Q,. It is black/dark prey in colour. Do not use painting sandpaper! (Unless you want sand in your point!)

*Available online from fencing equipment suppliers, Amazon and Ebay. See tools and Supplies page. Check warning labels and avoid inhalation of fumes and sprays

Some armourers do not recommend the use of cotton buds / Qtips or even the need to clean the barrel!

How to – Clean the Point

This is an Advanced task that can require the use of chemical solvents. You may wish to give this task to an Armourer.

It can be done on Leon Paul points when changing the screws.

German points rarely need cleaning unless white light errors are occurring that can be traced to the point (See testing your foil*).

After removing the point and spring (see tips in basic maintenacne), clean the barrel by inserting and rotating a cotton bud with some switch cleaning spray or dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Do not press hard into the barrel, it can damage the wire base and cause a rewire.

Tip: DO NOT use WD40 or any general lubricant. It will gum up the point

Using the finest emery paper (800 grade):

  • Very lightly clean both ends of the spring
  • Clean the contact area on the point where the spring sits
  • Leon Paul points: clean the other side of that which is where the screws make contact. You may see a ring of black carbon which is formed by the sparking mentioned earlier. This can be difficult to see but the surface should be grey or shiny not black
  • German Points: Clean the gap between the collar and the base (ferrule)
  • Reassemble the point as described in Replacing Point Screws in Basic section.
  • Clean the flat face of the tip that contacts the opponent’s lamé with fine emery paper to ensure points are scored.

(pictures: point components indicating areas to clean)

How to – Test the Spring

(picture of weight test)

The spring needs replacing when it fails the weight test.

It will be tested by the referee at certain levels of competition and a penalty point will be awarded to the opponent if it fails the test.

The spring must hold up a 500g weight on a vertical blade. When you press the weight down on the point, you should clearly hear it make contact and hear and feel a positive lift. To be absolutely sure use a battery powered tester, multimeter or a scoring test box.

You can also ask an Armourer to test for you and then replace it yourself, too.

How to – Re-attach a broken socket wire

Leon Paul bayonet socket (Note: These have been discontinued in favour of the two pin type)

  1. Remove the screw and washer from the socket base. These are often non-magnetic so be careful not to drop them.
  2. Remove the remains of any broken copper wire under the washer. (There should be a washer!)
  3. Strip the plastic tube from the wire by about 2cm to expose new wire
  4. Remove the cotton cover by scraping using a sharp knife, needle file or burning off with a lighter flame, taking suitable safety precautions.
  5. Ensure you remove the transparent lacquer (or the charred remains of it) that often covers the copper wire under the cotton cover to ensure a good electrical contact
  6. Fold the stripped wire around the shaft of a small screwdriver to make a loop to hold the non-magnetic screw.
  7. Ensure you go clockwise around the screwdriver (around the back to the front) to make a loop that tightens when you tighten the screw. Else it will open the loop.
  8. Ensure a washer is under the head of the screw when you place it in the loop. The washer must be above the wire, not beneath it. (It would insert another contact surface into the circuit)
  9. Use the wire to guide the screw to the hole and tighten with a small screw driver
  10. Remove any surplus wire as close to the screw head as possible. No loose wire is allowed.

Two pin socket

  1. Leon Paul brand. The lower nut is is captive (held in place) in the socket. Use a broad screw driver to loosen the bolt.
  2. Other brands. You may need an 8mm spanner to hold the lower nut still while you use the broad screwdriver to loosen it
  3. Remove the remains of any broken wire.
  4. Strip the plastic tube from the wire by about 2cm to expose new wire
  5. Remove the cotton cover by scraping using a sharp knife, needle file or burning off with a lighter flame, taking suitable safety precautions.
  6. Ensure you remove any transparent lacquer (or the charred remains of it) that covers the copper wire under the cotton cover to ensure good electrical contact.
  7. Use thin nosed pliers, if necessary, to wind the bare copper wire clockwise around the shaft of the bolt ABOVE any washer. Some armourers recommend NOT overlapping the wires as they get squashed flat and become weak.
  8. Remove any surplus wire as close to the bolt head as possible. No loose wire is allowed.

Setting a blade

(Pictures of tang sets, gentle and severe sets )

Due to the tools, experience and the safety aspects this might be properly classed as an Expert task.

Our hands are not straight and a foil tang must be bent to alter the angle of the handle to fit the hand comfortably. This is called the ‘Set’.

The tang is bent in two directions. Down, to fit under the ball of the thumb, and inward, to the right or left, to suit the handedness of the fencer.

How much it is set is a matter of some debate but will vary according to the preference of the fencer both physically and in fencing style. We are all different! Your coach will advise.

New blades from Leon Paul usually come with a completely straight set. Allstar and others will supply a standard right or left set as part of the order.

Setting a tang usually requires a strong vice attached to a substantial work bench. For a cheaper blade it is quite easy to get the angle but maraging blades, eg of the BF type, require a LOT of force.

Some armourers use a 10inch (25cm) ring spanner (or bigger), others have a home made ‘gizmo’ that can set a blade with a 3inch table vice!

To avoid damaging the wire, tang setting is best done with the weapon completely dismantled.

If you are replacing a broken blade, then you can copy the angles from that.

Do take care as the broken end is VERY sharp. Use the cut proof gloves and safety glasses and cover the broken end.

Broken blades should be taken to the local recycling centre. Do not put in your domestic bin!

(Pictures of setting tangs)

FIE Rules: Foil

Content Outline: General reference to Technical Rules plus one or two specific

Armoury Resources

Facebook: Ask the Armourers if you have a quick question.

For unsolved white light problems, rewires, mounting and setting new blades, changing handle types etc., Ask the Armourers or look for a local Armourer in our directory.

Related topics

Maintaining your Body Wire (Basic) and Advanced (lamé crocodile click fix)

Cleaning fencing kit (Basic)*

Other White light issues (Advanced)*

Rewiring a blade (Expert)*

Tools and Equipment*

Finding faults on your foil (Advanced)*

About blades*

About points and barrels*

Find an Armourer*

*Not yet available

Header text